Monday, April 14, 2014

L'Oeuf Neuf: A new way to cook an egg, with thanks to Buvette

When I heard that Buvette in NYC made eggs with their espresso machine’s steam wand, the one normally used to make cappuccino, I was intrigued.  When I tasted the eggs, I was obsessed.  The eggs are soft, fluffy and delicious, in the way the best gently scrambled eggs are.  In part because the eggs themselves are very good, and in part because even the ordinary is elevated when it’s drizzled with olive oil, speckled with parmesan, set on a bed of grilled oil-rubbed country bread and served with top-drawer prosciutto.  I had one of these eggs for breakfast at Buvette and then had Buvette-style eggs again, at home, for breakfast and dinner.
 
If I weren’t on the road, I’d have them again, right now.  I want to perfect my technique and then I want to play around with ways to serve the eggs.  I am in love and I only hope that Lisa and Scott’s chickens don’t run out of eggs while my obsession continues.
 
At home in Connecticut, we have a big (read ‘hulking’) commercial espresso machine.  We bought it used, cut our stone countertop to accommodate its plumbing (that’s what I call a commitment) and, while we wish it weren’t so big (and so ugly), we’ve always been happy that we shelled out the bucks to buy it.  Apres my egg epiphany, I don’t even mind the machine’s murky color.
 
I’m going to tell you what I did, but first:  If you’ve made these eggs – or if you watched someone at Buvette make them – please pipe up with advice.  If you have an idea of how these eggs can be made with something other than a steam wand, tell, tell, please.  It would be great to know of an alternative.
 
 
 
 
 Steamed eggs seem preternaturally light and they are, well, steaming hot, hotter than eggs off the griddle.   That they are so hot and stay hot for a while convinces me that I could make them one-at-a-time when friends come for dinner.  I want to serve them with mushrooms or asparagus or leeks as a starter.  Or maybe with something salty, like fish roe (or caviar) or bottarga or … you can see how quickly the eggs inspire good ideas.
 

 
And then, that night, I made myself a little dinner.  This time I added a splash of cold water to the egg and I think it was the water that made the egg even fluffier and lighter.  Okay, I’ll say it: made it ethereal!  I put the egg on some lightly toasted bread, spooned some salad next to it and then drizzled oil over the egg and finished it with a little ricotta that I’d mixed with chives, parsley, dill, lemon zest and olive oil.  Once again, swell.  
via:http://doriegreenspan.com/2014/04/loeuf-neuf-a-new-way-to-cook-an-egg-with-thanks-to-buvette.html

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